Recipes

Rabbit Richard Olney
Maybe its because I've just been to Provence but one of the nicest books to arrive through my letter box this summer is Alex Jackson's Sardine which is full of recipes he cooks at his London restaurant of the same name. I've been there a couple of times and really loved it.
I picked out this one for two reasons - one, I love rabbit and think it's much underrated and also regard Richard Olney as a bit of an icon. (Why is it some of the greatest writers about French food are American?) I haven't cooked it but I mean to and thought you might enjoy it in the meantime.
Alex writes: "This wonderful recipe is a Richard Olney classic: rabbit slow-cooked in rosé, saffron, cucumbers, tomatoes and basil. Cooked cucumber is somewhat unconventional, but delicious. Breaking down far enough to avoid being watery, the texture is a bit like a soft-braised courgette (zucchini), which would make a nice substitution if cooked cucumber feels like a step too far. Remember that in this case a little saffron goes a long way; the other flavours are delicate and too much spice might overpower. This is a light, summery braise, full of the flavours of Provence."
A leafy salad, nothing with too much crunch, and some bread will be enough, as well as enough additional rosé to keep the whole table happy.
Serves 4
4 rabbit legs or 1 whole rabbit, jointed
Olive oil
1 medium sweet white onion, halved and finely sliced into half moons
1 head garlic, cloves separated but not peeled
4 bay leaves
A small pinch of saffron
1⁄2 bottle (375ml/13fl oz) dry rose
2 small cucumbers (Lebanese if possible)
4 juicy tomatoes
1 bunch of basil, leaves picked
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 160°C fan/180°C/350°F/gas mark 4.
Season the rabbit well with salt and pepper. Place a wide heavy-based ceramic pan, something with a tight-fitting lid, over a medium heat and add 1 tbsp olive oil. Brown the rabbit pieces until a light golden brown all over.
Add the sliced onions, garlic cloves, bay leaves and saffron, followed by the rose. The rose should cover the rabbit pieces; if not, top up with water to barely cover the meat. Cover the pan with the lid and bring to the boil. Just as the liquid in the pan has started to boil, place the pan in the hot oven for around 1 hour 30 minutes, or until the meat is soft and starting to fall off the bone.
After an hour of the cooking time, check whether there is enough juice left in the pan. If too much has evaporated, add a splash of water.
Top, tail and peel the cucumbers, then slice them in half. Scoop out most of the watery seeds, then slice on a slight angle into 1.5-cm/1⁄2-inch thick pieces.
Cut the tomatoes into small, angular bite-size pieces. Season both the cucumbers and tomatoes with salt and, once the rabbit is soft, add them to the stew. Drizzle the whole thing lightly with olive oil. Return the pan to the oven, this time uncovered, for a further 20 minutes, or until the rabbit has caught a little more colour and the vegetables have softened.
Remove the pan from the oven and assess the stew: it should not be too watery, but there must be enough strongly flavoured juices to mop up with bread and salad. If the stew seems a touch thin, cook it for a few more minutes, uncovered, over a low heat. If it seems a bit thick, add a glug more water. Taste the juices, as well as a small piece of rabbit, for seasoning, and if you think it needs it, add salt, a small knob of cold butter or an additional glug of extra virgin olive oil. Roughly tear the basil leaves into the stew, and it’s ready.
What to drink: Alex suggests a Provencal rosé and I'm totally happy with that. Maybe a Bandol rosé
From Sardine: Simple seasonal ProvenÒ«al cooking by Alex Jackson, published by Pavilion Books. Image © Matt Russell.

Carrot pie with apple and goat cheese
This unusual recipe from Dutch cookery writer Yvette van Boven's lovely Home Made Summer is a great way to kick off National Vegetarian Week.
It's well worth getting the book for the other recipes too - including an imaginative range of drinks.
Carrot pie with apple and goat cheese
for 6 to 8 servings
8 carrots, peeled
1 sheet frozen puff pastry, thawed
1 onion, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced
1 fresh, tart apple, peeled, cored, and sliced as thinly as possible
4 oz (100 g) soft goat cheese
½ cup (100 g) crème fraîche
½ cup plus 2 tbsp (150 ml) carrot juice
3 large eggs
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Boil the carrots in salted water for 8 minutes, until just tender. Drain and rinse under cold running water. Halve them lengthwise and set them aside.
Grease a 9-inch (24-cm) tart pan with a removable bottom with a little butter.
On a well-floured counter, roll out the puff pastry into a nice round slab the size of the pie plate. Press the dough firmly into the plate and trim the edges neatly. With a fork, stab some holes in the bottom, then cover the dough and place the pie plate in the fridge for 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).
Arrange the onion and apple over the bottom of the pastry in the pie plate and place the halved carrots on top in a spoke pattern. Crumble the goat cheese over the pie, somewhat in between the carrots.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the crème fraîche, carrot juice, and eggs. Season with salt and pepper. Pour the mixture over the carrots and sprinkle everything generously with pepper.
Bake the pie on the lower rack of the oven for about 35 minutes, until golden brown.
What to drink: Almost any crisp fresh white or rosé would work with this. I'd probably go for a smooth Italian white like a Soave, an unoaked Chardonnay or Chenin Blanc or a Provencal rosé. Verdelho would be nice too. Or cider . . . yes, cider would be lovely.

Butternut squash with pistachio pesto, feta and pomegranate seeds
Finding a special occasion vegetarian dish is tough if you're not a veggie yourself but try this show-stopping recipe from Sabrina Ghayour's Persiana which won best new cookbook at this week's Observer Food Monthly awards.
Sabrina writes: "Middle Eastern people often perceive butternut squash as bland. Taking inspiration from an Asian pesto-and-squash dish made by my friend, the chef Tony Singh, I came up with my own Persian pistachio pesto, adding salty crumbled feta cheese and a handful of vibrant pomegranate seeds for a burst of flavour.
The result? It has become one of my most popular supper club dishes of all time and has proven itself to be the dish that converts those who were formerly not the greatest of squash fans."
Serves 2 as a main course or 4 as a side dish
1 large butternut squash, quartered lengthways and deseeded
4 tbsp olive oil
sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
150g (5 1/2oz) feta cheese
100g (3 1/2oz) pomegranate seeds
For the pesto
100g (3 1/2oz) shelled pistachio nuts
70g (2 1/2oz) Parmesan or Grana Padano cheese, chopped into rough chunks
olive oil
1 small bunch of coriander, leaves picked
1 small bunch of parsley, leaves picked
1 small bunch of dill, leaves picked
3 tbsp chilli oil
juice of 1 lemon
In a food processor, blitz the pistachios and cheese together, adding a generous amount of olive oil to slacken the mixture. Put all the herbs into the food processor with a little more olive oil as well as the chilli oil and lemon juice and blitz again, then add a handful of crushed sea salt and give the mixture one last blitz. Taste the pesto, ensuring it has enough salt and acidity, then allow it to rest in the refrigerator until you need it.
Preheat the oven to 200°C/fan 180°C/gas mark 6. Once the oven is hot, rub each wedge of butternut squash with the oil, season generously with sea salt and black pepper and place it on a baking sheet lined with non-stick baking paper. Roast the squash for about 45–50 minutes, or just until the edges have begun to char slightly. You want to blacken the edges a little – this gives them a nice chewy texture. To check the squash to see if it is properly cooked, insert a knife into the flesh – if it slides clean through, the squash is ready. If you feel resistance, return the squash to the oven for a few more minutes.

Serve each wedge of butternut squash on a plate, drizzled generously with the vibrant green pesto. Crumble the feta cheese on top and scatter over the pomegranate seeds to finish.
What to drink: With the punchy, herby pesto you should be looking at a sauvignon blanc or other crisp white wine here. But a dry Provencal rosé would also work really well.
From Persiana by Sabrina Ghayour published by Mitchell Beazley (www.octopusbooks.co.uk) Photo © Liz & Max Haarala Hamilton
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